The short answer
For most sim racers, a load cell pedal set is the best upgrade you can make. Choose hydraulic if you want the feel of a real brake system and consistent pedal travel. Choose active pedals if you want the most realistic brake available today and your budget allows it.
The rest of this guide explains the difference and how to pick.
Why pedals matter more than you think
Lap time is won and lost under braking. A basic pedal measures how far you push it, but a real car's brake responds to how hard you push. Pressure is much easier for your leg to repeat than position, so pressure-based brakes build muscle memory faster. That's why so many drivers say pedals, not the wheelbase, made them faster.
The three types
Load cell
A sensor measures the force on the brake pedal. You can tune the stiffness with elastomers or springs to match a GT, formula or road car. This is the standard for serious sim racing.
Hydraulic
A master cylinder and fluid add the damping and progressive feel of a real brake line. The pedal feels smoother and more natural at the top of the stroke and firmer as you press harder.
Active
A motor drives the pedal, so its feel is set in software and can change in real time. Active pedals can reproduce effects such as ABS pulses and brake fade, and you can switch the feel between cars with a profile rather than a spanner.
What we stock, by budget
Getting started (about $150 to $350)
- Simagic P500: $149
- Sim-Lab XP1: from $199
- Asetek La Prima: $334.99
Serious upgrade (about $375 to $550)
- Simagic P1000: $469, or $377.10 for the 2-pedal P1000-F
- Asetek Forte: $459.99, and the Forte S-Series at $499.99
Hydraulic and flagship (about $490 to $690)
- Simagic P1000-FRS (2-pedal hydraulic): $494.10
- Simagic P1000-RS (3-pedal hydraulic): $521.10
- Simagic P1000i-RS (inverted, hydraulic): $629.10
- Simagic P2000: $609 to $689
Active (about $800 to $1,200)
- MOZA mBooster active brake pedal: $799
- Simagic P-Active: $999 to $1,199 (pre-order)
Prices are current at the time of writing. Shop all pedals.
Four questions to pick your pedals
1. Is your rig stiff enough?
A load cell brake can take well over 100 kg of force. On a desk or a light wheel stand the whole setup moves, so you can't use that pressure. Plan on an aluminum profile chassis for anything above an entry set.
2. Two pedals or three?
If you drive modern GT and formula cars with paddles, brake and throttle are enough. Add a clutch if you plan to use an H-pattern shifter or drive classic cars.
3. Floor-mounted or inverted?
Inverted pedals hang from above, like most real race cars. They suit formula rigs and drivers who heel-and-toe. Standard floor-mounted pedals fit almost any cockpit.
4. Upgrade now or later?
Many sets are modular. You can start with brake and throttle, then add a clutch, hydraulic kit or haptic reactor from our pedal add-ons.
Our recommendation
- First real pedals on a budget: Simagic P500 or Sim-Lab XP1
- Most sim racers on a proper cockpit: Simagic P1000 or Asetek Forte
- Want a real brake-line feel: a hydraulic Simagic RS set
- Want the most realistic brake available: MOZA mBooster or Simagic P-Active
Not sure which suits your rig? Contact us and we'll help you match pedals to your cockpit and wheelbase.